Mock Serging

To all of you beginner sewers, or to those of you who have not found the money or inclination to buy a serger yet, I thought I would share my “mock serge” method.  This is the way that I finished seams for years, before there was any such thing as a serger for home sewers.

Now, I do have to tell you that I absolutely love my Baby Lock serger!  I would not want to go back to this method.  But the point is, sergers are not cheap.  Well, you can probably buy a cheap serger, but I actually would rather do this “mock serge” method than have anything besides a Baby Lock serger.

Sergers require three to four spools of thread to lock together to create a beautiful seam and finish all in one step.  But because of all of the thread spools that have to travel through a maze to get to where they are going, threading a serger can make one want to use unladylike language.  (Or ungentlmanlylike…is that a word?)

That’s where Baby Lock comes in, and that’s why they are worth every penny that you will spend.  Baby Lock sergers have this magic way of using air to swoosh the thread through the complicated maze with the downward push of a lever.  It makes me smile every time.

My Sweet Baby Lock

Maybe there is another company that uses magic to make threading easy; I don’t know.  But if you are considering anything besides a Baby Lock when you take the serger plunge, be sure you sit down in the store and thread the machine yourself before you hand over your credit card.  If not, you may be setting yourself up for frustration.  Or, you may decide to never change your off-white thread, even if you are sewing a Little Black Dress.  Those gigantic spools will last a long time.  But when they run out, I won’t be surprised to hear your serger went flying out of your sewing room window.  Accompanied by language that may ruin your reputation as a kind and gentle neighbor.

But let’s just say that you are not ready to buy a Baby Lock serger.  And let’s just say that even though you are new, or relatively new, to sewing, you still want to produce work that looks handmade but not home made.  Well, that requires finishing the seams of anything that is not lined.  And that is where my mock serging technique comes in handy.

This was serged by me and my Baby Lock

When you use a serger, you run the fabric through the machine at the seam line once, and you are done.  The mock serge, however, requires three steps.  But the results are pretty impressive when you take off your unlined jacket and your friends get a glimpse of your handiwork.  (Better yet, don’t wait for a chance opportunity to show off your skills.  Create an opportunity.  Either “accidentally” wear it inside out, or just yell, “Hey everyone, look what I did!” as you point to your finished seams.)

Here are the steps for creating a mock serge seam and finish, and it should look something like the picture below.

Step One:

Sew along your normal seam line.

Step Two:

Trim the seam to 1/4″ or 3/8″.  Don’t trim any close than 1/4″.

Step Three:

Set your machine to its widest zig zag setting.  Use a stitch length of about 15 stitches per inch.  (You will, of course, need to practice to get the length just right.  You don’t want a dense stitch length as this will create a ridge that will show and will be felt from the outside.)  When the needle is in the left position of the zig zag, it should be on your fabric.  When the needle swings to the right, it should be just off the edge of your fabric.  Stitch the raw edge in this manner, and you should end up with a nice seam and finish.

Of course, you will need to practice this a little to get good results.  Different weights of fabrics will require some stitch length adjustments, but always use the widest zig zag stitch your sewing machine allows.

The three-step "mock serge" seam and finish.

Okay, so now it’s your turn!  I’d love to hear how you do!